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Virgina Postrel notes this LA Times article about a Pollock tells a different story. "This is a poison," he says, gesturing at several bottles of dragées on his conference room table. "It is, by [the manufacturers'] own admission, not edible. And yet they're producing it in a way that induces consumption. They're making it out of sugar and intentionally allowing it to be put on—desserts!"Being a Bay Area native, I have to point out that the San Francisco Chronicle had this story two years ago(and Boi from Troy and Overlawyered blogged it). Here's the FDA on dragees: When small silver balls known as "silver dragees" are sold exclusively for decorating cakes and are used under conditions which preclude their consumption as confectionery, they are not considered to be in the category of a food or confectionery.Pollock recounts a conversation with a dragee manufacturer's lawyer: "I took the dragées and I went across the street to the Superior Court and into the chambers of all six of the Superior Court judges. I showed them the jar. I came back, called counsel on the phone and said, 'I just went across the street. I did a straw poll of all the judges in my county, and every one of them has eaten these things. And one of them, I won't tell you which one, always picks the dragées off the cookies and eats them first. Now, you decide which judge you want to be in front of to make the defense argument that no one eats them.' And he said, 'Oh.' "How dangerous are dragees? Well, they're OK in Europe, so they must be safer than Genetically Modified Papayas... What's in a dragée anyway? This was hard to find, but thanks to the Sprinkle King, I found a 1996 spec sheet:
emedicine writes: The normal human body contains approximately 1 mg of silver; the smallest amount of silver reported to produce generalized argyria in humans ranges from 4-5 g to 20-40 g. Silver at 50-500 mg/kg body weight is the lethal toxic dose in humans.Are these tissue levels, or exposure levels? It's not at all clear how much silver from a dragee makes it into one's system, as opposed to exiting with your intestinal bacteria. In India there are a variety of snacks that are served with metallic silver...but it's not always pure silver: "There is a good chance of consuming toxic metals while eating sweets wrapped with silver foil," said Dr. Mukul Das, who carried out the study.Chromium and Cadmium are concerns. Meanwhile, the FDA hasn't been asked to look at this trend: Edible gold and silver are tasteless. The shavings are served in and on chocolates, cocktails, coffees, pastries, soups, salads and even entrees, like riso oro e zafferano , a gold and saffron risotto. Some chefs like to swaddle a whole chicken with gold leaf -- and eat with relish both foil and fowl. Silver is also big on finger foods. When one thinks of sushi, one can now think metallic shavings on raw mackerel. There is a gourmet who enjoys gilding lobsters, and why not? The celebrity chef Jeffrey Jake of the Lodge at Pebble Beach has created entire menus using gold and silver flecked on the high-end items like abalone, foie gras and truffles for those posh jet-setters who have seen all, done all. "Diners," Jake says, "are expecting more wow now than ever."I wonder if Virginia covers this in The Substance of Style (still on my to read list, VP...sorry). I'm guessing that these trendy diners in Pebble Beach and Beverly Hills are ingesting orders of magnitude more silver than the judge who eats the dragées off his cookies. Pebble Beach and Beverly Hills...aren't those in...California? There are also people in California who are selling and taking this stuff. Mr. Pollock may wish to reexamine his priorities. Update: Welcome Dynamist readers! Thanks to Virginia for the link. To prevent faux pas, remember... dragée is pronounced dra-'zhA and is derived from the same root as "dredge".
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